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April 21, 2024Snowdon is the highest mountain in Wales. Located within Snowdonia National Park, it’s renowned for its rare flora and fauna.
Approaching
As much as I moan about dreary weather in the UK, it doesn’t bother me if I’m wearing the right clothes. After a friend mentioned climbing Snowdon (proper name, Yrs Wyddfa), we hatched a plan. My essentials (snowboarding clothing and walking boots) were packed in to the car ready.
Though not as enthralled as we could be by the legend of Rhitta Gawr, the giant who killed kings and wore their beards as trophies, my friend and I excitedly counted down the days. Legend has it, Snowdon is the burial place of Rhitta Gawr who was defeated by King Arthur though we didn’t find his grave. Whether you’re intrigued by mythology or simply want to see some stunning landscapes, Wales is a good place to start for both. The drive was picturesque at every turn.
With its raw beauty, sweeping views across Snowdonia National Park, and a plethora of historic buildings, the approach to Snowdon was one of my favourite areas.
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Arrival
After an 8hr drive, I was rather pleased to spot the campsite. Lack of signal meant the satnav wouldn’t work, the tiniest lanes led us straight in to the paths of tractors, and guess who failed to locate us on the map.. in my defence, I hadn’t been tracking us because I thought the satnav had downloaded the route! Lesson learnt the hard way.
The wind was picking up and as we set up our tent, the rain started. Eventually we set up camp and had some time to enjoy the firepit as we cracked a beer by the water. The scene was charming to say the least.
Early hours of the morning, the wind came with a vengeance, and I’m still genuinely baffled as to how those tents withstood the storm. Nevertheless, they survived, and we got up early to start our hike up Snowdon. With just a few hours’ sleep between us, we were both less than enthusiastic to start.
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Summit Time
We walked along the road, marvelling at the typical dry-stone walls as we passed. The imposing mountains looming in the distance never really seemed to get any closer. Crossing the Welsh Highland Railway, we walked through the car park and began our ascent. The lower part is deceptively gentle, but it gets steeper and steeper, the higher you go.
Rhyd Ddu path is the quietest route up Snowdon, but it is certainly not the easiest. I’ve since seen advice that a map and compass is a must – we had neither. I urge you to be better prepared, mountains should never be underestimated; the environments can change in seconds.
Though Rhyd ddu’s ‘Bwlch Main’ ridge is not as narrow as Crib Goch’s ridge, we were wind-swept across this part which made it feel dangerous enough. The intense gusts saw me almost crawling at points as I struggled to stay upright. This is not for the faint-hearted when windy, with sheer drops adjacent. In comparison to Crib Goch, it’s still a walk in the park though.
We were lucky enough to see a break in the weather and witness some beautiful views but that didn’t last long. By the time we reached the summit, the mist had rolled back in, the temperature had dropped, and the views were limited to about a 20ft reach. But we made it!
It was quite eerie listening to a sheep bleating in the mist yet being unable to see it. Parts of the hike felt like we were in a horror movie with the howling wind and rolling fog. The unexpected bleats of sheep made us jump on more than one occasion.
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The Descent
Due to the swift decline in temperature and the incoming weather front, we decided not to queue to touch the Summit Stone. Even the Visitor Centre was closed. The weather grew progressively worse as we descended, with the wind and driving rain making it harder and harder to take the intended route. Perseverance and patience paid off until my friend slipped on the loose rocks and dislocated his ankle.
After relocating the ankle, we took a slower pace and continued down. This felt like it took a lifetime. I could’ve cried when we got to the flatter fields at the bottom and found our route cut off by cattle. They weren’t in a friendly mood and took a little too much interest in us. Having hiked for 8hrs, and feeling fatigued, I saw my friend out of danger but found myself too weak to even jump a wall. I eventually managed to throw myself over it and escape the herd!
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What a Day!
Managing a chuckle at our narrow escape with the mad cows, we limped on to the pub. Well-earned pint after that eventful day. Cwellyn Arms is located at the foot of Mount Snowdon in the village of Rhyd Ddu and was our chosen stop. They had a vast array of food and beverages on offer. Between us, we tried the duck, the lamb, and several pints to wash it all down. I don’t think a meal has ever tasted so good; it’s amazing what exhaustion does for the taste buds.
Back at the campsite, hot showers and dry clothes meant we were finally feeling human again. We lit the firepit, made friends with the neighbouring tent, drank one beer, and then crashed out after all our excitement. Waking with the sunrise and cherishing one last cuppa by the lake was the perfect start to the morning before setting off home.
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Overall
If you are new to hiking mountains, I’d recommend researching some of the routes and even consider a ride on the train as it was daunting even for me – and I deemed myself fit because I go to the gym regularly. Make sure you pack sensible layers; it can be bitterly cold at the top even in summer! With hindsight, I would’ve packed a map and I’d consider a compass with not knowing the route. Consider sun cream, sunglasses, torches, hat, gloves and waterproofs. If you attempt this path (and possibly others) in winter, ensure you have ice axes and crampons.
With plenty of lodgings, pubs, and restaurants, you can pick or choose your holiday style. From camping to glamping, there’s something for everyone no matter their budget, fitness level or chosen footwear. Pack some snacks and enjoy yourself.
Happy hiking!
